Recent content by sbrownnw

Are you planning any sales for the LAP3 Uncle Chip or plugs? Or possibly special bundle pricing on the chip and recommended plugs?

And it seems a few 2.0T Stinger owners in this thread did the LAP3 uncle chip install without upgrading plugs in this thread.

Here is the email thread from March: On Dec 15, 2017, at 11:20 AM, K5 Optima Store <sales@k5optimastore.com> wrote: Hi Scott, The singer does not require upgraded spark plugs as the spark plugs from the factory are built strong enough to handle the tune. Only other models of Kia and Hyundai...

I emailed David at the store in march and he said the 2.0T factory Stinger plugs were fine with no need to upgrade. I'm checking in now to see if that's changed. Did it?

Who has kept stock plugs running 92 octane with chip on 91 setting vs going with the plugs listed on the K5 store page? (http://www.k5optimastore.com/collections/new-products/products/hks-m45xl-spark-plugs)

Surprised the overall ride is stiffer given the Eibachs are progressive springs. I had them on a G35 and the overall ride quality was better until you really pressed the car (and the springs) to the stiffer rate.

Is this why I am hearing a weird vibration noise just under and through 2,000 RPMs on acceleration, deceleration, or just steady on RPMs? Vibration noise seems to be coming from either the door or under my seat and is 100% reproducible, especially with the radio off.

So I did a negative terminal battery disconnect for 35 min over the weekend. That seems to have made the most noticeable difference but the foot well is still cold when temp set to 70 deg, split defrost and foot well and fan on 2. I never use auto mode. Seems to be a fresh air / AC issue.

So, it is a little better after disabling Automatic Ventilation. It still seems cold in the cabin and mostly the foot well as I need to run the temp at 72-76 with fan speed 2, fresh air mode and split defrost / foot well on a 40 deg morning. This is the first car that I've had like this as all...

I could pull all associated climate control fuses, but the settings mentioned above do not do a full climate control system. I was wondering if some kind of heater / cooling vent door is stuck and a computer or climate control reset might fix that.

If that doesn't work, do I disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to do a reset?

All 3 settings are off / disabled now that are mentioned on page 4-149 of the manual (Auto Defogging off, Automatic Ventilation off and Smart Ventilation off). I will see if that makes any difference while driving later today and tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure they are both off.

I want to reset my climate control as I'm still dealing with cold air coming into the foot well on the driver's side when the heat is on and the air flow is split defrost / foot.

What are the steps to reset the computer on our stingers? Are there different steps for the 4 cylinder vs 6 cylinder cars?