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DIY; ARK Performance Stinger GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide

TEAM ARK

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2018 Kia Stinger G2
#1
Hey offroading guys! (a little height joke...[lovekia])

Here is a DIY installation guide of our GT-F lowering springs. Please note the color of the springs in the photos is a test color. GT-F springs are orange.

Tools needed:
10mm socket
13mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
17mm crescent wrench
----------------
To prepare for the spring installment have your car on the lift or jack stands with all 4 wheels off the ground and have the hood open. If you cannot have all four wheels off the ground at the same time we recommend at least two wheels off the ground. Front as a pair and/or rear as a pair. Remove your wheels and set aside.

Starting in the rear, we must first disconnect the headlight sensor on the driver side by popping the clip out to release the sensor. A 10mm socket is then used to unbolt and remove the cover underneath the lower control arm.

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Use the 17mm socket to remove the linkage bolt connecting lower control arm to the strut. Then unclip the suspension sensor on the strut.

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Next remove the ABS sensor with a 10mm socket.

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Switch to a 13mm socket to remove the bracket for the suspension sensors and position it off to the side.

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Brace the rear lower control arm from underneath for your safety. Then, using a 19mm wrench and impact gun, remove the 2 bolts on the lower control arm connecting the LCA to the strut and the knuckle.

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Pull down rear lower control arm and remove spring.

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To reassemble follow the steps in reverse making sure that the spring is seated flush in the groove on the lower control arm with the rubber mount replaced on top. Be sure to brace the lower control arm before tightening the strut tower and rear knuckle.

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Moving to the front of the car. A 10mm socket is used to remove the brake line bracket on the engine side of the strut. A 10mm socket is going to be used to remove the bracket behind the caliper towards the front of the car.

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Then switch to a 13mm socket to remove the bolt for the bracket above. This allows you to move the wiring out of the way in order to unclip the sensor behind the strut.

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Use a 17mm socket to remove lower strut bolts. We sprayed WD-40 around the strut bolts so that they would slide out easier. The lubricant is optional.

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The nut towards the top of the strut is a tricky one. Grab your 17mm crescent wrench to hold the nut in place while you use a socket wrench with an Allen key to loosen the inner bolt. The link should slide out.

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Unbolt the outer tier rod. First remove the holding pin. A 19mm is the used to remove bolt on steering knuckle. Grab the rotor at 3 and 9 o'clock and mimic left and right turns to loosen the outer tie rod bolt and then pull out.

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We found it safer, easier, and faster to leave the top hat on the vehicle as we remove the strut and spring assembly. Place spring compressors snuggly on the spring as you prepare for the next step. From the engine bay. unbolt the top nut from the strut by using a 19mm socket then tilt the strut and springs assembly towards you. Be mindful of the fender while you pull it out. Remove the top hat from the vehicle by using a 14mm socket to remove the three nuts that hold it in place.

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We used a compressor to compress the spring before reinstalling the top hat. If you do not have a compressor, manual spring compressors must be used. Since we did not remove the brakes from the lower control arm one must carefully clear the fender upon reinstallation so as to not scratch the vehicle itself when replacing the strut with the newly installed spring.

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And that's it! Please consult with your Kia Stinger expert on torque specs on all stock nuts and bolts.
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#2
Excellent write up, I had to remove the whole brake/hub assembly in the front to get the suspension assembly out. I see that you found the trick to removing them by compressing the spring while in the car, very cool.
 

robz32

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#3
awesome write up guys, thanks for doing it. Will certainly help when I get to do this.
 
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#4
Thank you so much!
I can do this myself now!
[high five]
 
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#5
Does anyone know/have the torque specs for the front and rear suspension?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Saab 9-5 AERO. Stinger GT on order
#6
Steve O here. Many of you may recall my ranting and complaining about a too soft suspension. I put in Eibach's (which I love) and then the shocks were still way too soft. Not to worry. I have the solution. The adaptive shocks have a default mode if they lose the computer control. They fail firm. Very firm. So I wired a toggle switch into the driver side front shock solenoid and with the flick of a switch I have SUPER SPORT mode. If the computer discovers the fault the transmission defaults to comfort and you have to make the circuit and restart the car to go back to computer happy operation. BUT, you can drive for a few minutes before that happens. So I can select SUPER SPORT for a few minutes then switch back and the computer doesn't notice and I'm a happy camper. I was set to spend $1500 US plus freight plus installation plus taxes... about $3000. I tested my idea and SHAZAM! SUPER SPORT suspension for $300. That's having a local shop splice in and mount the toggle in an inconspicuous spot. I'll send pics when I get around to it. IN the meantime the car is very firm and now capable of being tossed around like it's 3000 lbs.
 

robz32

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#7
[MENTION=148]Steve O[/MENTION] That is great info. Please make a new thread with this great new found information. Looking forward to it.
 

54ford.rs

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#8
Quick quest on this. I installed the with sway bars and adjustable end links and now I have some clunking noise over every bump. I have checked all the bolt tightness to torque specs and they are good but I am at a loss. I did take the control arms off the front and wonder if the ball joints aren't seated properly. Any thoughts?

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Gscianna

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#9
Quick quest on this. I installed the with sway bars and adjustable end links and now I have some clunking noise over every bump. I have checked all the bolt tightness to torque specs and they are good but I am at a loss. I did take the control arms off the front and wonder if the ball joints aren't seated properly. Any thoughts?

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What did you do to resolve this issue? I just installed and am having the same issue.
 

spider55

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#10
What did you do to resolve this issue? I just installed and am having the same issue.
You need to use loctite on the threads where the lock nut is then let it sit for 12 hours so it can dry.
 

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