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Catch Can Thread

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#82
EVO 10 full bolt on with dyno tune got bussed. After that, no one wanted to race lol. I am using map 3 on jb4 5psi over stock with an e-blend. I could be making mid 4's for power. I plan on dynoing soon.
Please share your dyno results.[unbelieveable]
 
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FL
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What I Drive
2018 Stinger GT
#84
I ordered the Radium Engineering OCC's, I received them and I am blown away at the quality and design, three way baffling (thick mesh media first then two stages of baffling) and quality through-out, I highly recommend them. The good thing is the inlet/outlet threads are -10AN so this leaves the option of using many combinations of fittings. After seeing the design I believe one for the PCV is enough, so I am going to run two OCC's only.

For anybody attempting to do it DIY, these are the hose sizes and correct fitting sizes you will need,
1. PCV outlet - 3/8" or -6AN <-PCV fitting
2. PCV inlet - 1/2" or -8AN <-Intake manifold
3. Breather outlet - 1/2" or -8AN <-Driver side cam cover
4. Breather inlet - 5/8" or -10AN <-Driver side intake pipe near the turbo

I am waiting on the fittings to arrive and will post pics once I am done hopefully sometime next week.

Sweet cant wait, just waiting on your pics and tutorial to drop the cash. Once I see your pics and location for mounts and fittings.[rockon][rockon]
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#85
Sweet cant wait, just waiting on your pics and tutorial to drop the cash. Once I see your pics and location for mounts and fittings.[rockon][rockon]
Waiting on UPS to deliver the fittings etc, its international so it will take probably another week or so.
 
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2018 Stinger GT
#86
Waiting on UPS to deliver the fittings etc, its international so it will take probably another week or so.
Yea I feel you one thing I don't want to do is rush into something that's not going to work the right way. , man by the way I love your island was out there in that area 3 years ago, cant wait to go back.
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#87
Yea I feel you one thing I don't want to do is rush into something that's not going to work the right way. , man by the way I love your island was out there in that area 3 years ago, cant wait to go back.
Let me know when you are here the next time, will take you to some of the local areas.
 
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2018 Stinger GT
#88
Will do for sure[rockon]
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#89
Finally got the parts and got around to installing the OCC, excuse the dirty engine but our weather is dusty and harsh so it is normal in this part of the world. Installation took a while and I made a few mistakes that I will point out below, but overall I am very pleased with the outcome. I went the expensive way I guess as I am using fittings for any corner in an effort to maximize flow.

All the parts are either from Radium Engineering (RE) or Summit Twist-Tite (STT) fittings.

Parts list,
RE Dual Catch Can - Universal Bracket (One for the PCV and the other the Breather)

PCV Inlet,
1. RE - Low Profile Banjo Swivel - 10AN Male ORB to 8AN Male
2. STT - Flare Reducer 8AN Female to 6AN Male
3. STT - 6AN Barb to 6AN Female - Straight
4. STT - 6AN Barb to 6AN Female - 150 Degree
5. STT - 6AN Barb to 6AN Male
6. RE - 6AN (3/8) Hose - 2 Feet

PCV Outlet,
1. RE - Low Profile Banjo Swivel - 10AN Male ORB to 8AN Male
2. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Female - Straight
3. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Female - 150 Degree
4. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Male
5. RE - 8AN (1/2) Hose - 2 Feet

Breather Inlet,
1. RE - Low Profile Banjo Swivel - 10AN Male ORB to 8AN Male
2. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Female - Straight (If I could do this again I would recommend 45 Degree instead of straight so that it doesn't touch the dipstick)
3. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Female - 90 Degree
4. STT - 8AN Barb to 8AN Male
5. RE - 8AN (1/2) Hose - 6 Feet

Breather Outlet,
1. RE - Low Profile Banjo Swivel - 10AN Male ORB to 10AN Male
2. STT - 10AN Barb to 10AN Female - 45 Degree
3. RE - 10AN (5/8) Hose - 5 Feet

There are two rivets by the fusebox in the firewall holding the black heat shield in place, you only need to drill one out and use an allen bolt with a 3/4" spacer between the OCC and the firewall. I didn't use a spacer the first time and I trimmed the upper plastic piece to make space for the fitting, but with the spacer no trimming is necessary. I used an oversized SS and rubber washers with a spring washer and it is holding the OCC firmly in place.

I have driven it a day only so far, will post updates if it collects anything.
 

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#90
Wow [MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION] that kit looks solid.
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#91
Final change, didn't like the plastic strap holding the hoses in place, also having the hoses covering the BOV looked busy. Got a size .938" T-Style hose clamp and used an extended M6-1.00 bolt which is the KIA thread size and placed it in the unused thread in the block. Much cleaner look especially when the engine cover is placed,
 

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VegasStinger

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#92
Great job on the install [MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION] let us know in a week how much oil is captured.
 

Kale808

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2018 Micro Blue Kia Stinger GT
#93
You're a champ [MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION], great write-up.
 
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#94
Messages
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2018 Stinger GT
#95
Final change, didn't like the plastic strap holding the hoses in place, also having the hoses covering the BOV looked busy. Got a size .938" T-Style hose clamp and used an extended M6-1.00 bolt which is the KIA thread size and placed it in the unused thread in the block. Much cleaner look especially when the engine cover is placed,
Wow dude looks 100 times better nice work looks really clean and thank you for the pic with the cover off. [clap]
 

MurlinatoR

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#96
Thanks guys, I checked the PCV OCC yesterday and it collected 1mm of oil, and this is less than 200miles of driving.

Will keep you guys posted.
[MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION], question for you. So, that PCV line normally runs straight to the turbo intake housing? Is that correct?
 
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2011 - 997.2TT
#97
[MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION], question for you. So, that PCV line normally runs straight to the turbo intake housing? Is that correct?
No, thats not correct, the one that goes into the turbo intake housing is the Breather line. You have two separate things happening here (PCV & Breather). I would estimate that 70-80% of the junk oil/moisture/fuel etc will be coming out of the PCV, so if I have to put only one OCC it would be for the PCV first and then the Breather, better to do both though and get it over with.

Things to consider for a proper OCC setup,
1. Good OCC obviously
2. Minimizing the hose length.
3. Minimizing the number of bends
4. Placing the OCC away from heat Ex. turbo or exhaust manifold etc.
5. Using correct size hoses, nothing smaller than the outlet/inlet used in the original hoses.
6. Leave some flex in the hose if the OCC is not fixed to the engine as the engine will move and you don't want it to pull or bend the hose and interrupt the flow or worse etc while you are driving.

You can check GTB's video in this thread, shows exactly were to find the hoses, I will explain below also.

PCV - Behind the passenger side valve cover, near the firewall you will find a rubber hose coming out of the PCV and loops back into the intake manifold. That is the PCV line, you need to have one catch can installed between that line. It is in an awkward location with difficult angles to place the OCC but I did my best with 150degree fittings there.

Breather - Nearer to the front of the driver side valve cover you will see a rubber hose exiting the valve cover going into a steal hose then back to a rubber hose and into the right side intake pipe before the turbo. Same again you need to place an OCC in that line.

For the Breather line, if you are planing to install an intake kit, then I would suggest placing the Breather OCC as GTB did on the driver side behind the intake filter, cause it will be a shorter hose setup not requiring any extra fittings and easier access to the OCC as well.
 

MurlinatoR

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#98
No, thats not correct. You have two separate things happening here (PCV & Breather). I would estimate that 70-80% of the junk oil/moisture/fuel etc will be coming out of the PCV, so if I have to put only one OCC it would be for the PCV first and then the Breather, better to do both though and get it over with.

Things to consider for a proper OCC setup,
1. Good OCC obviously
2. Minimizing the hose length.
3. Minimizing the number of bends
4. Placing the OCC away from heat Ex. turbo or exhaust manifold etc.
5. Using correct size hoses, nothing smaller than the outlet/inlet used in the original hoses.
6. Leave some flex in the hose if the OCC is not fixed to the engine as the engine will move and you don't want it to pull or bend the hose and interrupt the flow or worse etc while you are driving.

You can check GTB's video in this thread, shows exactly were to find the hoses, I will explain below also.

PCV - Behind the passenger valve cover, near the firewall you will find a rubber hose coming out of the PCV and loops back into the intake manifold. That is the PCV line, you need to have one catch can installed between that line. It is in an awkward location with difficult angles to place the OCC but I did my best with 150degree fittings there.

Breather - Nearer to the front of the driver valve cover you will see a rubber hose exiting the valve cover going into a steal hose then back to a rubber hose and into the right side intake pipe before the turbo. Same again you need to place an OCC in that line.

For the Breather line, if you are planing to install an intake kit, then I would suggest placing the Breather OCC as GTB did cause it will be a shorter hose setup not requiring any extra fittings and easier access to the OCC.
Okay, so a silly question then.... Does anyone think that there's a possibility that the oil blowby that's going through those lines and back into the turbo intakes is actually helping lubricate the turbos at all? Like, are we drying them out by intercepting the flow with the OCC's?

Again, it's a silly question because, while I'm pretty in tune (catch the cheesy pun) with drive train mechanics, I am not as educated on this subject.
 
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#99
Okay, so a silly question then.... Does anyone think that there's a possibility that the oil blowby that's going through those lines and back into the turbo intakes is actually helping lubricate the turbos at all? Like, are we drying them out by intercepting the flow with the OCC's?

Again, it's a silly question because, while I'm pretty in tune (catch the cheesy pun) with drive train mechanics, I am not as educated on this subject.
You want to keep the turbo compressor (Intake) wheel as clean as possible, turbos are highly balanced and you don't want any elements or fluids going their. Oil also just makes a mess and elements will be stuck to the oil on the turbo, intercooler, intercooler piping, throttle body, intake manifold, intake valves etc. The turbo's have a dedicated oil and water lines to lubricate and cool the bearings.
 
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[MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION] How much for you to assemble a "kit" and mail it to me? lol
 

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